Living in the light

I know we Brits are obsessed about the weather but frankly if you lived in this small, increasingly inward and parochial island, you would become obsessed with the weather too.

I grew up in the very North of our little island.  In a town of 8000 inhabitants, beyond half way to nowhere.  Wick is the county town of Caithness. Caithness is the final county in Scotland before you drop off the top into the cold North Sea.  Its claim to fame includes the old Queen Mothers favourite holiday destination, the Castle of Mey;  Ackergill Towers beloved of celebrities wanting to be Scottish for the weekend;  a nearly decommissioned nuclear fast reactor, Dounreay, along with its harbouring of the most northerly point in the UK – Duncansby Head, which can be found just a couple of miles away from the most northerly staging point of the United Kingdom,  John O’Groats.

The county of Caithness is a bleak, flat landscape, bereft of the average amount of sunshine that an average person in the UK would consider to be normal. dunnet-bay-beach On its wild, windswept and deserted golden sandy beaches often the only sound is the sea thundering in and the seagulls crying overhead.

As a teenager I enrolled as an Auxiliary Coastguard, the perfect job for someone happy to stare out of the window at the wilds of the Pentland Firth, recording the ships passing and coordinating any activity which may necessitate calling out the lifeboat crew.  Often, the walk to the coastguard station for my 6 hour shift was an almighty battle against the elements.  Back then, as a mere slip of a girl,  I experienced being lifted right off my feet by ferocious winds, hail battering my face, as bent double I inched forward.  The coastguard station, located right on the promontory of sea and cliff, could be a 20 minute, or one hour, walk depending on the vagaries of the weather.  60 footwaves-in-wick-harbour high sea waves hitting the harbour wall was a regular occurrence as was losing fishermen to the wild seas.  The favoured way of committing suicide was driving down the hill straight into the harbour or jumping off one of the many cliffs along the coastline.  Living and surviving in Caithness requires a resilience of soul and spirit and a propensity to live in semi grey darkness for at least half the year.

So its fair to say that for many reasons I never fitted in and the day after 6th form ended, I was on a train south, never looking back and rarely returning.

This experience of bleakness seeped into my heart and so I often find the transition from summer nights to autumnal days and the promise of a dark winter to be challenging for my soul.  Over the years I have researched the Seasonal Affective Disorder condition and looked at the many products on the market, which if you sit under them for a period of time, is supposed to mimic proper daylight.  I’ve yet to invest in one of these lights but as time marches on, I’m sure to finish my research, put my hand in my pocket and purchase one to help ‘happify’ my being.

As a result,  I am slightly obsessed by light and big skies.  It’s one of the many reasons that I fell in love with Africa.  The light is often cited by friends who have bought homes in places like Spain where even in the Winter the light is clean and cold and clear. I’m always up  for a visit, particularly in the Winter months.  In fact I have ‘missing light’ conversations a lot during Winter and the promise of sunshine in the Alps means that come November we are always looking at ski holiday details to get us over the hump of another grey and cloudy day, week or month.

A couple of years ago my baby brother got married in Wick, necessitating a trip “up north” with Craig and Roscoe, as slightly wary travelling companions.  (Craig loves to tell folks that the first person he ever saw in Wick was a man taking his Ferret for a walk using a small dog lead).   It had been 10 years plus since I was last in the town and aside from the addition of a roundabout and the inclusion of some well known High Street Stores, not a lot has changed.  It was Easter so the promise of some increased light with the clock changing was upon us and the vast expanse of sky and sea made for a compelling view.  john-ogroats-1007929_960_720We took a drive up to ‘Groats for the obligatory photograph under the white mileage sign, on a day where the watery sun was teasing us with promise.  We fell in love with the wild peace of the place and made the decision to debunk from the tiny, functional rooms of the Norseman hotel to a two bed apartment owned by Natural Retreats, right on the coast of the Pentland Firth.  The sun stayed with us for two days and I eventually saw the light which had so bewitched my parents.  In the sunshine, the coastline and scenery is spectacular, pinky, blue-grey sky stretching curved to the ends of the earth, using the sea as a springboard for light so entrancing I lost hours.pinky-grey-sky-wick

Two days is enough to have the men of the County taking to the streets in their short sleeves while we remain huddled in our down jackets, hats and scarves.  Two days is enough to fool me into a false sense of love and belonging.  Day three reality crashes in with the windows being battered by rain, hail and wind, the haar-mist rolling through so that watching the seals frolic in the sea outside is but a memory.

We saw out the week, a lot from the inside.  Our last day in Caithness saw the sun come out again but this time I was not fooled.  I took my family and my happy heart south.

I belong with the light.

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In sickness and in health

Craig and I often spend time apart – either because of work, family commitments or social engagements with friends.  For us, this is healthy, it lets us have space from each other while at the same time acting as a reminder of why we have chosen to spend our lives together.  And much as though I miss him, I look forward to these brief breaks.  So when he said he wanted to go to Scotland for a few days to see his Dad and spend some time with his old buddies, I readily agreed we should make this happen, despite, and because of, my recent surgery.

img_8734As during the past twelve months, with the exception of the inevitable work commitments, he has been at my side.  And at the same time, he has changed his job to a much higher profile role, lost his Mother and has been caught in the middle of a protracted and messy long-term sibling disagreement.  It’s no exaggeration to state his tenacity and commitment has been something of an inspiration for my recovery.

We don’t often speak of the toll on loved ones of a cancer diagnosis.  Personally, I feel it has been far harder on Craig than on me.  I see this sometimes when I catch him, unawares,  just watching me, or ‘spotifying’ our past summer holiday tunes, cooking incredibly tasty soups and stews to encourage me to eat when I’m suffering from the recurrent mouth ulcers or when he’s forgetfully wandering in and out of rooms. img_8285He has always told me daily that he loves me but now he says it with an intensity that I have no doubt of my responsibility for doing all I can to get better.  He regularly reassures me that he still finds me attractive, particularly during those days when I find my scars to be hideous or my skin-heavy tongue to be troublesome.  He encourages my forays into alternative and holistic healing, in-spite of any personal doubts.  He listens hard to my misshapen sounds and tunes out to my now atrocious singing, game fully joining in when the screeching gets too loud.  He laughs with me, and at me, when I’m being ridiculous.  He plans surprises big and small to keep me looking forward, supports my need to write this blog, sometimes correcting my grammar but often just letting it go to free my voice. He has gone from sleeping the sleep of the dead to waking at every sound and now seems incapable of sleeping any longer than 6 hours a night.  He  juggles his work commitments to accompany me to every hospital appointment and consultant review and apart from my banning him from coming to the intensive care ward, has been by my side every hospital day while pasting on his brave face for Roscoe every evening.  I don’t know how he managed to get through the day of my 12 hour surgery and emerge still sane.  I do know from the increasing amount of grey hairs on his head and, worry lines on his face, that my diagnosis and on-going recovery has been incredibly tough on him.

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From a change perspective I am curious to know how he manages and chose my moments to ask.  It turns out he likes some rituals – like putting on the washing, organising clothing into piles of colour and texture and measuring out the soap powder (he has a mistaken belief that I have always used too much)  He finds cooking to be relaxing (washing and tidying up afterwards, less so).  He needs to get out of the house regularly otherwise he suffers from cabin fever.  Watching any kind of sport on TV is a form of escapism.  He understandably seeks more predictability and organisation than we have experienced in the past.  He needs us to take regular breaks away from home as a means of forgetting, for the moment, where we are and what we are facing.

And if I had to do it over again (and I ask the Universe to ensure this is never the case), what would I ask him to do differently?  I would ask him to get more organised support, I would insist on a therapist or counsellor for him to talk to – not because I think he needs therapy but to have someone to be brutally honest with, to not need to put on the game face but just express his  deepest fears and emotions  as a form of catharsis on the body.  I would encourage more fitness, of any sort, to help with his cortisol and adrenal levels.  I would make him take omega 3 good quality fish oil for his amygdala health and well-being.  I would ensure that his buddies invite him out more for blokey, manly activities;  golf, squash, poker, classic car gazing, banger racing – whatever men do – as unlike me he internalises and finds it hard to ask for support. img_9564 I would restrict the alcohol levels and insist on far less meat and far more vegetables, not just as a side dish but as a main meal.  I would encourage him to have more “me” time, re-join the golf club for example, and to spend more time with his mates, away from home stresses.  I would shout louder for him, for help, support and care.  I would have him go to facials and back massages so he would relax and enjoy more pampering. In short, unless he feels cared for, how can he give so much of himself without he himself becoming depleted and sick?

And now, while I have just loved my most amazing girly weekend, he has enjoyed some much-needed down time with his buddies.

So all hail  some time away from the vows, commitments and promises that we make and keep.

As we continue to live “till death us do part” with our eyes wide open and our hearts full of love.

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Falling in love

I remember the first time I got off the plane at Entebbe. It was October, the start of the rainy season, and the heat of the sun was mingling with a recent rainfall.   The smell was intoxicating, like a half-cooked clay pot mixed with the rising scent of begonia, the murrim dust burnt orange underfoot. murrim soil Entebbe.jpg This blast of heat and smell and dust blew in front of me; the noise, aroma and sensation, an enticing beckoning into a love affair that has never left.

I have waited nearly 12 years to share this with my child.  Wanting him to be old enough, aware enough, to build his own relationship with this special place.  We chose South Africa, “Africa light” as I’m apt to describe it, for a slew of reasons, all of which were rational and pragmatic.  We decided to visit in Winter, better to see the wildlife on safari, less mosquito’s, less tourists.  We chose a mix of African bush and city to provide contrast and maintain interest, carefully selecting the places to stay.

And the first few days were magical – all I could have wished for.  I watched his eyes widen img_7427at the sight of elephants so close you could smell their breath, at lions lying feet away replete from a kill, at rhinos locking horns in violent play-fight, at hungry hyena and wild dog scrapping, at giraffes fixing him with their beautiful hooded eyes before sauntering away.img_7855  I saw him listen to every word of Stu the safari guide and George our spotter.  He playfully gave himself into the music and culture delighting the staff at Etali Lodge with his desire to learn their songs and participate in their sounds. He jumped in deep;  watching lizard, zebra, bush buck and warthog from the depths of our plunge-pool and singing loudly and with great abandon in the outdoor shower.  This is a happy child, falling in love with my Africa.

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And then we arrive in Cape Town and it changes.  The city itself is beyond recollection and I keenly feel what Elizabeth Marx terms “reverse culture shock“.  It is at once familiar yet strangely alien.  I search for Africa and see the successful commercialisation of an international city.  Small family owned restaurants are now large, bland, international affairs.my-citi-bus-waterfront-1  In revolt we purchase a MyCiti card and take to travelling in and around the city on local buses, desperate to retain a link to the culture that made this place so unique.  We encounter slivers of this, just enough to keep searching, but it is becoming more futile by the hour.  To make it worse, Roscoe keeps talking of Madikwe and us returning there and it is obvious that the Mother city has only attracted his consumerism and not his heart.

So we headed off to the Cape Winelands, basing ourselves in Franschhoek the Huguenot town renowned for its gastronomic delights, engulfed by a plethora of high-quality vineyards and nestled in the spectacular Franschhoek valley.  img_8425
This is the home of La Petite Ferme, the award-winning, family run vineyard where Craig and I used to stay in our young and carefree days.  Only this is currently closed, having been sold, and is now undergoing renovations, no doubt to make it bigger, better and more commercially lucrative than before.  Everywhere we go, we see the march of touristic progress from the penguins sidewalk at Simons Town to the rise of new hotels in the middle of Hermanus.  The charm and culture appears to be ebbing away and it bruises my soul.  Of course I have no right to wish stagnation on a country that so desperately needs the tourist dollar, no right to expect the culture to be wrapped in cotton wool and preserved for my child to experience.  I would not want this place, this continent. to do anything but rise and prosper and flourish. img_7194 But to see it through my child’s eyes – we could be anywhere in Europe, America, Canada, Australia – this is not Africa, this homogeneity choking a culture so colourful and vibrant.

And yet, we take a thread of hope and a promise of tomorrow, back with us.  For Franschhoek also hosts a number of small boutique art galleries.  And on day one of our visit we fall in love with a painting by a local artist called Katherine Wood.  It’s an exorbitant cost but it beckons us back each day to gaze at its sweeping skyline and discuss how it makes us feel, think, breathe.  We are in the in-between land of knowing but not knowing, reminded that life is fleeting and ephemeral.  This art, it calls to us and commonsense and pragmatism fade and disappear in its incessant need to be heard.

We buy hope and dreams, future not past. And the crate arrives three weeks later, massive in size, it alone making a statement that refuses to be ignored.

We will gaze at this painting, and its companion piece,  to the end of our days.  I too have succumbed to commercialism and magic.  Yes, Africa remains within me, a concept, a promise, a never-ending love affair.

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It’s okay to be scared

I’m writing this post from another hospital bed with another view of another car park,  having undergone yet another procedure for another suspected ailment.image

And as a healthy person, this is scary.

I am the person who survives on minimal sleep during challenging work periods.   I’m the woman who is ultra calm and able to make clear, quick decisions during crisis. imageI’m the Mother always up for the 100metre dash at school sports days, who swims and skis, dances and laughs.  I’m assertive. Goal orientated. Caring and supportive.  I am lots of things.   I am Not sick.

So this latest adventure is more challenging than the first.  Because I can’t unknow what I now know. I know what it feels like to wear compression socks and hospital gowns, to have the anaesthetist say “slight scratch and sting”  before the land of nod arrives. I know about the half-life-waking in the recovery room and the waves of pain in-between the trips of morphine.  The bloods, the pulse checks, the blood pressure checks. I know. I know. I know.
And yet,  I’m more knowing of the concept of unknown.  Having embarked on this 8 week journey of fog, uncertainty and ambiguity, the answers remain elusive, even after today.  Perhaps this is how it’s meant to be.  For now.

I am more curious and inquisitive of the procedure, the consultant, the potential diagnosis and outcomes. I explore the dance of the mind from the outside in, knowing my thoughts and fears are just thoughts and fears. I live the experience of managing the mind and body on a daily basis, trying to stay present and not look too far forward.  And there are days when this goes great and I achieve gold star status and days where I’m outright, downright scared.image

On scary days I have to force myself out of bed.  I set small tasks to manage myself.  Cleaning out cupboards, filing, tidying.  I like silence but scary days demand loud dancing or singing music of infinite variety.  I try to get out but sometimes the really bad scary days mean I hide inside,  all the while knowing this is not the answer.  I chant and tap and do star jumps and stretches.  And I say  over and over “I am healthy, this is just a moment-in-time, a dose of bad luck”.

I AM healthy.  This is a wake up call.  To look after my body.  To eat clean organic food. To get and stay fit. To dance more. Laugh more. Live more.  To get scared more.  Because in those really scary moments in those really scary days, I know I’m alive.  I’m upside down with my guts in my throat roller-coasting through life.  And yes, it’s uncomfortable and dark and stressy at times. And it’s not rainbows and stardust and big, glitzy, glam ‘shout it from the rooftop’ experiences.  It’s real-life on a micro scale.image

What am I learning?

1. Patience.  I admit this has never been a great attribute of mine but I’m learning to wait, To stop, To breathe, To let go.  Being patient is an ongoing work in progress.

2. To talk out my fears.  When I hear myself speak out my darkest, most ridiculous thoughts I often immediately realise how mad they are.  Or I discuss and defend these until I talk myself out of the loop and then they go and I laugh at my own craziness.

3. To be able to feel without feeling too much.  I’m reacquainted with my feelings and stating what these are, while knowing they will change.  I also know now, how to put a lid on this so I’m empathetic but don’t get so involved.

4. That living with an unknown is not as bad as I thought it was.  It just is. I play with breathing and mindfulness and micro-doing and I get through the myriad of days with a better degree of thankfulness, grace and joy.

5. To shout for help.  Or, sometimes,  to just shout.  I’ve stopped trying to cope in silence.  I’ve put my pride to one side.  I’ve reached out and said “can you….” and I’m blown away by the time and generosity of my incredibly special tribe of friends.  And by my lovely husband who sometimes finds it as cathartic as I do, to shout loudly to relieve stress.

My latest scar is my ambiguity tattoo.  The unknown is scary but predictability is worse!image